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Problem

Temperature and pressure relief valve discharging

A T&P valve that drips or runs is either doing its job against real overpressure, or failing from age and sediment. This page separates thermal expansion from a failed valve, explains why the discharge pipe must never be capped, and what the fix costs in each case.

Applies to:Gas storage tankElectric storage tankHeat-pump water heaterIndirect tank

Hot water and scalding

  1. Water above 49 °C at a tap can scald in seconds, and children and older adults are at most risk. BC's plumbing code limits shower and bathtub water to 49 °C.
  2. Storage tanks are normally kept hotter (Health Canada advises 60 °C) to limit Legionella growth, with a thermostatic mixing valve tempering the water to the fixtures.
  3. Never bypass or remove a mixing valve, thermostat or high-limit control to get hotter water.

Official guidance: Government of Canada on water temperature and scalds and HealthLinkBC.

Thermal expansion is the usual cause

Water expands as it heats, and on a closed system, where a backflow preventer or pressure-reducing valve stops the expanded water returning to the supply, the pressure climbs every time the tank fires. The relief valve is the pressure's release point: it lifts, drips into the discharge pipe, and reseats, over and over, which is the classic drip-during-heating pattern. The engineered fix is an expansion tank sized to the system, which absorbs the expanded water so the valve stays seated.

The test is timing: a valve that discharges only while the burner or elements run, then stops, is seeing expansion. A valve that runs continuously, or drips when the tank is cold, is more likely failed open or seeing supply pressure above its rating.

The rules that are not optional

The discharge pipe must run to an approved location, must not be capped, plugged or valved, and must not have its end submerged: the valve is the tank's last pressure relief, and blocking it turns the tank into a pressure vessel. BC's plumbing code and every manufacturer manual are unambiguous on this, and the annual maintenance check exercises the valve so it does not seize.

A seized or weeping valve is a replacement part, and a valve that discharges because the tank is genuinely overheating needs the heating fault found, not the valve changed twice a year.

Water on the floor from the valve

Discharge that has stained the floor or runs continuously is the moment to call: shut the cold supply if the discharge will not stop, turn the gas or power off if safe, and have the technician test supply pressure, the expansion system and the valve. Water damage restoration is separate from the heater work.

Frequently asked questions

Why does my relief valve drip only during heating?

Thermal expansion: on a closed system the pressure rises as the tank heats, and the valve lifts. An expansion tank sized to the system is the fix, not a new valve.

Can I cap the discharge pipe to stop the dripping?

Never. The discharge pipe is the tank's pressure relief path; capping it is dangerous and against code and every manufacturer's instructions.

How often should the valve be tested?

Manufacturers call for operating the valve at least once a year to confirm it lifts and reseats. If it will not reseat or drips after the test, it is replaced.

Talk to a water heater technician

Describe what the water heater is doing and get a straight answer about the next step.

On-site service in Metro Vancouver, BC. Call to check availability.

Sources and verification

Facts checked September 7, 2026. Last updated September 7, 2026. Technical reviewer: not yet assigned.

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